In hollow walls, these are much stronger than almost any other anchor system aside from a direct stud connection. These are basically a replacement for the old spring style toggle bolts (which can only be used once since the toggle part drops into the wall cavity if the bolt is removed). A bolt is put through your hook or fixture and is threaded into the metal bar.You’d use a 9/64-inch bit for a straight pilot hole, although some softwoods might benefit from having a 1/8-inch bit. As a bonus, if you go ahead with the drill bit, you have the flexibility of putting the shelf anwy. When your project uses hardwood or softwood, a standard 10 wood screw is suitable for the fastening work. Make sure your screws are smaller in diameter than these holes - you dont want to stress the glass tiles, whether through a grout line or directly through a tile. The metal bar is held to the front plate by the remainder of the legs. If you are using 10 hammer drive or U-drive screws, the recommended drill bit size for your pilot hole is 20.Once it is tightly set, the excess legs are snapped off.The front plastic anchor plate is then slid toward the wall and the legs are pulled outward.Once the bar is in the wall cavity, the two nylon legs are aligned so the metal bar is now parallel to the wall.The bar is then pushed into the hole in the wall.The legs of these are slid so that the metal bar is rotated until it is perpendicular to the wall.

Obviously putting a screw into a stud would be preferable, but with bathroom fixtures that is rarely the case.Įxcept for the most simple lightweight mounting, I have tended to use one of the new type toggle anchors.

Screw into tile